10 August 2010

The Frequent Flyer: Living with Pandas [Part 2]


The Shaanxi Wild Animal Rescue and Research Centre is home to 25 giant pandas, 5 of which are babies including one very rare brown coloured one, unfortunately "Mr. Panda Baby Keeper" was described by our guide Peter as "not a very nice man" so we only really got to see them briefly once and instructed not to take photos! I did however catch glimpses of the babies throughout the day as their house was between Niu Niu and San San's and managed to get a few sneaky photos of the cubbies when I saw them playing outside although Jiena warned me not to let the other keepers catch me taking them, I felt like the pandarazzi! The pandas I did have access to were Niu Niu, San San, Ping Ping and our next door neighbours Qin Chuan and Le Le, the others we didn't really see much of and of course the language barrier made it difficult to converse with many of the other keepers.


In my first few days panda duties had me tired out but once I got used to the routine and the manual labour (because Cate hasn't done much manual labour before) duties only really took up a few hours of the day, most of the time we had to ourselves to explore our surroundings. The centre was home to many other animals besides pandas, unfortunately their lifestyle was not as luxurious as the pandas, where as each panda had their own large outdoor enclosure full of foliage and trees and their own keeper at their beck and call these poor creatures had small enclosures with little or no stimulation and only a few keepers to tend to all of them.



Unfortunately the Chinese Government only funds the upkeep of the pandas (not the centre) which means the other animals housed there get the raw end of the deal and as much as I really, really wanted to help the other animals in my 3 weeks there we were unable to make any contact with the other keepers, so instead we took the initiative and gave ourselves the duty of feeding them extra treats each day and would buy fruit, vegetables and the occasional take away from the local restaurant to feed to them.



I adored the Moon Bears, especially little baby bear Wan Wan, who I presumed were rescued from bile farms. Each morning or afternoon I would visit them with treats of apples, pears, jam sandwiches and the occasional fruit pop on hot days and they seemed so delighted to see me almost smiling, which was in stark contrast to the privileged pandas, because keepers are slaves to their pandas every need and demand! Pandas have no idea just how lucky they are to have a country dedicated to prolonging their survival.


Louguantai is the birthplace of Taoism, a statue of Lao Tzu overlooks the village and aside from the centre the main attraction is the Taoist Temple. Despite its remote location the centre does get a fair amount of visitors, bus loads would arrive in the morning to get a glimpse of the pandas, who normally at that time were tucking into their breakfast bamboo or waiting for their milk and "cookies" to be served. I was often asked when the pandas would be out and even once ordered to get them to come and entertain the visitors by a very pushy tour guide, I of course refused and replied that they are free to come out when they want to. Believe me pandas won't do anything they don't want to do!


Life in Louguantai was very laid back, the days seemed to go quite quickly although it felt like I had been staying there for months! The locals were quite friendly if a little curious about these strange Westerners living with the pandas, I often felt like we were the ones display at times, especially when visitors would wander down to our lodgings and peer through the window at us. Louguantai is a very beautiful village set in the foothills of the Qingling Mountains, visitors would describe the misty mountains as paradise and although there isn't very much to do there after 3 weeks it really did become home to me.



I felt like I was reasonably knowledgeable on the "Panda Industry" before I left but I learnt so many more things I wouldn't have had the opportunity to by actually being there, talking to the keepers and doing the jobs they do. My last day at the centre was quite laid back and easy, I almost wished that the pandas would cause a big fuss and try to escape (which Qin Chuan had already tried a few times) or even just make a big mess of their enclosures just so I'd be more involved with them before I left. As I said my farewell to Jiena who had not only taught me so much about the pandas but about life in China, she thanked me for helping her improve her English and of course helping her look after the pandas. She said I was the smartest volunteer she had worked with and she had never been able to trust a volunteer to work alone before like she had with me and that I would make a very good panda keeper one day, let's just say it's definitely something I would put consideration into after my time there.


 As my plane left China and the new friends I'd made (some of the human variety) I felt tears welling in my eyes, I had no idea how attached I had become to the place after only being there a short while. It proved to be the amazing opportunity I had always thought it would be, yes it had its problems to but the positive experiences I had there far outweigh the negative and it will be something I will never ever forget.

  Certified Panda Nanny!

07 August 2010

A Day at the Beach: Cha-Am (Thailand)








Admittedly I'm not much of a "beach bunny" but every once in a while it's nice to get away from the city and enjoy the sunshine. Cha-Am has possibly one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen, the sands are clean, the sea is blue and there's hardly another person in sight. With Cha-Am being only a couple hours drive away from Bangkok it's a great excuse for me (and my dog) to get away from the city, make the most of the the sunshine and enjoy the fresh clean air.

What is your favorite beach and are there any beaches you would love to visit?

04 August 2010

The Frequent Flyer: Living with Pandas [Part 1]


Absolutely amazing is a pretty good way to sum up my experience of China and living alongside the pandas. After years of dreaming I finally took the plunge, packed my wellies and travelled to China to do volunteer work with one of my favourite creatures, the pandas.

I had seen various other panda conservation centres in China that were open to foreign volunteers but one of the main reasons I decided to go to the Shaanxi Wild Animal Rescue and Breeding Research Centre  (SWARC) was that it was more focused on rescue work and also that its doors were open up to other rare species, such as the Golden Monkey and Takin which I had never heard of let alone seen before.


I wasn't quite sure what to expect on my arrival there having never travelled completely on my own before or done any sort of volunteer work, the company (I-to-I) I decided to go through had given me an idea of what to expect but I decided not to invest too much thought into it, my philosophy being the less I expect the less disappointed I may be, although from the beginning I always knew in my heart that I could never be disappointed from this experience and it would be every bit as amazing as I expected it to be.

   
On Monday morning we were taking to our new lodgings which was actually inside the centre, next door to the pandas, (I did suspect that our quarters were once used to house pandas) given our uniform and rubber gloves and told to await further orders. China is a pretty laid back country I found, and before work even started we were taken to the local restaurant for a long welcome lunch where we were greeted by a CCTV reporter and camera wanting to interview us for a news report about the pandas, I must admit I was taken aback by all this attention and tried to hide from the camera cowering behind my large sunglasses nervously giggling (did I mention we were already in our work clothes at this point) but the reporter later caught up with me and interviewed me whilst I was cleaning panda poop! Not the best way to make my debut on national Chinese TV but I doubt many people will see it, I've still yet to see the report myself.



After lunch and time to digest we finally got introduced to the keepers we would be working with for the next few weeks. I worked with Jiena who, like the other keepers we got to know, had only been working in the centre a year. As well as getting to know the pandas I also enjoyed getting to know the keepers and they taught me a lot about Chinese culture and also about how the pandas are kept. I was shocked to hear that they did not get any time off (only under very exceptional circumstances) and their whole life revolved around taking care of the pandas, after only 3 weeks even I found the work to be a bit tedious and repetitive so I can't imagine what it was like for them doing it all day every day and not being able to see their family or friends for an extended amount of time. I was glad to be there to give her a bit of a break from her duties and ease the stress a bit because looking after two large adult pandas can be pretty hard and demanding work!



Niu Niu was the first panda I was introduced to, she was rescued from the wild after being involved in a fight and suffering severe injuries which meant her front paw had to be amputated. Jiena told me that Niu Niu is very shy with new people and will just sit in a corner but once you get to know her she is like a princess, however I never experienced a shyness with Niu Niu from day one she was very sweet and seemed to be very interested in what I was doing poking her nose through the bars and sniffing at me and even coming to greet me when I walked past her enclosure.


After our brief introduction Jiena put me straight to work telling me to fetch armfuls of bamboo to feed to Niu Niu, then teaching me how to coax her into an adjoining cage so we could clean up the remains of Niu Niu's breakfast (yes you know what I'm talking about!). I was then handed a shovel and basket and told to shovel the poop, I was of course expecting this part of being an animal keeper is shovelling the poop! As pandas live on a diet primarily of bamboo their poop was pretty much that just in a more mushy state, also it didn't smell which made the job much easier and more pleasant. After the cage was cleared of waste we would rinse and disinfect it, job done onto the next panda.



San San was the next panda I was introduced to another rescue from the wild after suffering injuries in a fight, you'll notice he has a bashed up pink nose and they suspect some head trauma as he's sometimes slow to react. Jiena described San San as a crazy boy although I must admit for the first few days I saw him as anything but crazy, he seemed so quiet just sitting in a corner happily munching on his bamboo but all that changed and San San's true colours began to show....


Food couldn't come quick enough to San San every mealtime involved a tantrum of biting at the bars and scraping his metal bowl across the floor, and even when he was in reach of food if it wasn't to his liking he would let you know! Needless to say I didn't get too close to San San, fearing that he'd try and eat me one day, although I did grow to love him and his crazy antics.

Daily Panda Duties
8am - Feeding & Cleaning
10am - Vitamins, Panda Bread, Fruit & Milk
2pm - Feeding & Cleaning
4pm - Panda Bread, Fruit & Milk

And so began my job as a panda keeper and three weeks living close to those gorgeous black and white bears.